French Holiday 2016 Dinan & Cote d’Amour Pink Granite Coast:
We decided to head back to France again in 2016 and booked a holiday through Brittany Ferries. We were booked to leave Plymouth on the 19th May on the Pont Aven at 8.45 p.m for the overnight crossing to Roscoff. To start the holiday off with a lovely restaurant meal on board in their Flora Restaurant and then retire to our Commodore Cabin being rocked to sleep to wake up in Roscoff the following morning. However, that did not happen as the Pont Aven developed a propeller problem which meant we had to re-arrange an alternative crossing. Brittany Ferries laid on an additional earlier crossing on the Thursday leaving Plymouth at 2.00 p.m and arriving in Roscoff at 8.30 p.m. on the Armorique. This actually worked out very well, as we had an extra night in France, paid for from the refund we received from Brittany Ferries due to our original crossing being cancelled.
19th May 2016. We boarded the Armorique at 2.00 p.m. and had a good crossing. We arrived in Roscoff at 8.30 pm and were very quick disembarking and were at our Roscoff Hotel Le Brittany and booked in by about 8.45 as it is only a few minutes up the road from the ferry port. We had a very nice standard room which was of a good size, with a sitting area and then another area which could be partitioned off with a curtain which had a large writing bureau and a couple of extra chairs which had access to the back courtyard garden. We have stayed at this hotel before for a longer stay and did pay a supplement for a sea view room, so please click the link to read the blog
We just put our overnight bag in the room and had a brisk walk into Roscoff for something to eat, hoping that we would find still find somewhere open. Our French Italian restaurant was closed but found a very busy restaurant Le Surcouf further along the road which was very good and very full. We plumped for the Table d’hote menu which was 19 euros per person for a 3 course meal. We both had a pork terrine followed by steak and chips (there was lots of fish dishes, but I do not eat anything that swims, and Steve doesn’t really eat fish). I had floating island for my dessert and Steve just went for the vanilla and chocolate ice cream. Our holiday had begun.
20th May 2016. It was actually our 38th wedding anniversary so we had a lovely breakfast in the dining room overlooking the sea and then It was a warm and sunny day with high cloud and we stopped at Jargon du Lac which was a perfect picnic spot beside the lake and enjoyed our baguette and a glass of wine.
We arrtived at our Hotel Arvor in the centre of the beautiful historical city of Dinan, and were shown our room (we had paid a supplement for a superior room) which was on the 2nd floor and was a lovely bright room decorated in a shabby chic style. It had 3 windows and it had a great view over the town. There was one little problem however and that was that there was chunk of enamel missing in the bath. Steve took a photo and went down to reception to show them we had not done it and the damage was already there. He then tried to negotiate in Pigeon French a discounted price as his argument was that we had paid extra for a superior room, and with the damage to bath it therefore wasn’t a superior room. It paid off, as he was offered a discount so we were happy.
This hotel has a very small car park with limited spaces at a cost of 8 euros a night but we could not pre-book a space through Brittany Ferries and unfortunately there were none available so we parked our car in a very clean and secure underground car park which was just a couple of minutes walk from the hotel. However we were told that there would be a space in the car park tomorrow. Just a little note, the majority of spaces are very small with just a couple of larger spaces, so if you have a large car be warned.
Once the car was parked, we had a quick walk around part of town then noticed a little tourist train parked outside the hotel in readiness for a 45 minute drip around Dinan and down to the River Rance which I have to say was very enjoyable.
We then went for another walk around the town to look for a restaurant where we could eat and celebrate our Anniversary. Steve had done some research and found his favourite which was actually just across the road from the Hotel Arvor. We passed it on the way back to the hotel and booked a table at the Le Cantorbury.
We had a super evening made more special by the super French waiter. We chose the Table d’hote menu at 43 euros more than double last nights but it was definitely worth it, and you get what you pay for. We were given an amuse bouche of red pepper mousse to start followed by fois gras pate and then a very good steak (yes our 2nd in 2 days) served with filled courgettes, other vegetables, mashed potato and bearnaise sauce. This was followed by a cheese course and I chose baked Camembert in a pastry case served with salad and Steve had plate of assorted cheeses which included Rochfort which we have never tasted it is a very (and I mean very) strong French blue cheese (I tasted a bit and never again). Steve chose a white chocolate mousse, cherries and creme for his dessert and I chose crème brûlée , well you cannot go to France and not have this and it was delicious. We rounded off the meal with coffee which we were not charged for as we had mentioned to the waiter that we were celebrating our wedding anniversary. The end of a very enjoyable wedding anniversary.
And back to our room. We didn’t sleep very well as being in the town it was quite noisy, with people walking along the road outside of the hotel talking loudly – in French!!! There was also noise from traffic, the church bells just across the road which chimed every quarter of an hour and chiming the time on the hour (although this stopped at midnight but started again at 7 am). The hotel is also right next to a small theatre and it was very noisy when everyone came out when the performance finished, but hey ho what do you expect if you are in a town, but it did have its advantages (please read on).
21st May 2016. Breakfast was taken in a small dining room but have to say it was a bit like “Fawlty Towers”, as there were no cereal bowls, no milk for cereal and the choice was a bit limited, but thankfully we were still full from last night.
We collected the car from the underground car park and were a bit worried as to how much this was going to cost as it was pay on exit. We were pleasantly surprised as it was only just over 10 euros. We now had a parking space in the hotel car park.
It was another warm, dry day with high cloud. We decided we would walk down to the River but first to walk around the castle only to find that it did not open until 1.30 p.m. so we decided to do that after we had been down to the River. This was a very picturesque walk down a beautiful fairly steep cobbled medieval cobbled street lined with quaint cafes and artisan shops. There was lots of purple and white Wisteria adorning the fronts of many of the buildings which was very pretty. This walk down to the River Rance is a “must” if you are visiting Dinan, but I will say that it is quite steep with uneven ground but well worth it.
We walked along the river and stopped for a coffee at a large café next to the river which was very pleasant. There is a boat trip along the river a few times a day and as we had just missed one (it was now about 11.30 a.m) A notice in the window showed one at 2.30, then another at 4.00 p.m and the last at 5.30 p.m. We decided to walk back up the cobbled street into the town stopping for an ice cream (this was our lunch as we were still full from last night).
We then walked back to the Castle and ramparts which was built by Jean de Montfort who was the Duke of. Brittany in the 1300’s. It was quite interesting but it didn’t take too long to see it all so then went back to the hotel for a little rest before venturing back down to the river for the boat trip.
We sat in our room with the windows wide open sipping a glass of wine whilst we were entertained by a brass band who played a variety of rousing tunes and then a children’s brass band. There were many people on the street below soaking up the atmosphere but we had the best seats in the house. Then there was lots of car horn tooting and it turned out to be a white Citroen 2CV wedding car, which stopped just in front of the hotel, very sweet. There was a little more entertainment when a female dressed in a white rabbit costume and a man dressed as a chef went around the crowd collecting money (which we think was for the band).
Entertainment over, so the time had come to walk back down to the River for our boat trip. However it turned out that although the last trip was advertised at 5.30, the last one of this particular day was actually at 4.00 p.m. so we had missed it. As we were too early for dinner we sat by the river and had a drink.
We didn’t want a full blown French meal tonight so we saw a Pizzeria and Pasta restaurant which was right on the river which looked very inviting so decided to eat there. However it did not open until 7.00 p.m so we walked along another part of the river to kill some time. We enjoyed our meal, Steve opting for a Carbonara (complete with egg shell containing the egg yolk) and I chose a peppery pizza (I like it spicy!!!) and it was very pleasant. Steve however had a near miss when a bird deciding to defecate on our table as it flew overhead. It is supposed to be lucky if it lands on you but fortunately it missed Steve, so not quite sure what it means if it was a “near miss”!
It was then yet another walk back up the steep cobbled hill, made much more difficult on full stomachs back to the hotel and so to bed in readiness for another sleepless night!!!
22nd May 2016. Well what a difference to last night, even though it was a Saturday night it was very quiet. The only noise was when the theatre finished, so we had a really good night’s sleep. Up reasonably early for breakfast, packed the case and on route to Trebeurden and last hotel where we would be staying for 3 nights.
The Hotel Manoir de Lan Kerellec is right on the coast and is situated above beautiful sandy beaches and the stunning scenery of the “Pink Granite Coast”. We arrived early and was greeted by the daughter of the owners who was very pleasant and we were made to feel very welcome. We didn’t think our room would be ready but it was and what a lovely room it was. It was a standard / traditional room which was at garden level, but we did have a sea view from the window. It had a large pink marble bathroom and we were very pleased. The door out to the garden as right next to our room, so we had very easy access to the garden area which was equipped with a patio table and chairs right outside the garden level rooms.
We unpacked and went for a walk down to the port of Trebeurden which is actually twinned with Newton Ferrers and Noss Mayo which straddle the River Yealm and the promenade was called the “Yealm Promendade”. Newton and Noss are only a short drive away from where we live in Ivybridge as both these very pretty villages are in the South Hams.
We stopped for a coffee in a very good beachside cafe and then up into the town of Trebeurden, but as it was a Sunday all the shops were shut. We then walked back up the hill to hotel and sat in the garden. Decided to eat in the Hotel Restaurant which is naturally mainly sea food, but there were meat options. This was a fantastic dining room built in the shape of an upturned boat with a large boat suspended from the ceiling and panoramic views of the sea from the large picture windows.
There were a couple of Table d’hote menus or you could chose from the a la carte but we chose a Table d’hote at 57 euros per head, and I know this sounds expensive but it was superb (and you got extra little courses that you didn’t know you were you going to get) and couldn’t fault it at all. Naturally it was very French and you get what you pay for. There was not much choice for each course, and it was mainly fish (being right on the coast) and as I said above I do not eat anything fishy but there were meat alternatives. This is how it should be as you know that everything is cooked fresh and you would not expect an extensive menu in any good restaurant.
We started with one of the extra dishes, which was a tray of little hors d’oeuvres which were a little shot glass of warm consommé which was tasty, a little square biscuit like base with a cube of flaked hake (Steve ate mine), a tiny round dish with some rabbit terrine (I have to say that I have never tried rabbit before – I really shy away from “Thumper” but I tried it and liked it) and some little Parmesan roll which looked like a brandy snap. Then another little unexpected hors d’oeuvress which was a couple of mouthfuls of a little breaded base topped with mussels an a foamy creamy top – there is probably a proper French name but this is my best description. At this stage the waiters did not know that I did not eat any sort of fish, so I just left it front of me. The waiter saw it and asked if there was a problem , I answered him in pigeon French saying I did not eat any fish or seafood but as it was additional little appetiser that we were not expecting I wasn’t bothered. Anyway after a few minutes another little dish was brought out which was little pieces of carpaccio of lamb (with some green topping) – oops raw lamb not so sure as I like all my meat well done, but as he bought me an alternative to the mussels I had to force it down, but I have to say it was delicious, but glad it was only a couple of mouthfuls.
Of course there were little French bread rolls and a little dish of 2 different butters came out, one a swirl and completely cream and the other was in a cone shape with black bits in it. This was the one I chose but after spreading it on my roll I nearly spat it out (not really good etiquette in a posh restaurant!!) I nearly spat it out as I was sure it had fish in it. Steve looked at me and passed comment that of course it wouldn’t have fish in it. (Also the waiters now knew that I did not eat any sort of fish, so I am sure that they would have said). However he tasted it and had to agree with me. I did a bit of research on my ipad after the meal (like you do when on holiday) and apparently Bretonne butter is famous and they use a large amount of salt, so whether this was the reason I thought it fishy I will never know, but there was certainly a fishy taint to it. .
Then our chosen starters arrived, (of course posh French names on the menu but I will try and describe them which will make them sound very plain, but of course they were not). I had an extra large egg, with thinly sliced apple, celery, a butter sauce and white truffle which was delicious. Steve had fois gras and a couple of pieces of breaded rabbit, and some other fois gras half baked with chutney, which was beautifully displayed on the plate which was served with 2 little pieces of fruit filled toast again he said it was delicious. For the main courses, there were only 2 choices of meat (well really only one as the French seem to have a meat dish but then add some sort of fish to it so please read on). I had circular pieces of lamb which had a very tasty mild spicy topping and filled with cashew nuts, asparagus and some other creamy vegetables and a very tasty jus, it was so tasty and as with all top class food, it didn’t look as if there was much on the plate it was very filling and full of flavours. Steve got daring and chose the other so called meat dish which was smoked guinea fowl which was served with squid (something he has never eaten before and frankly hasn’t wanted to, but he was willing to give it a go). The guinea fowl had squid ink over it and it was served with some vegs but not sure what they were and a creamy sauce. Steve was a bit hesitant choosing this, but said it was delicious.
Our chosen desserts were preceded by another unexpected small glass of chopped strawberries in a sauce and a quenelle (impressed??) of sorbet. My dessert was a picture on a plate and was utterly delicious which was a plate which had a circle of little individual meringues alternatively topped with a chocolate soil, strawberry sorbet and strawberries with a some sort of strawberry coloured leaf decoration. I am not a sweet tooth but it was yummy. Steve chose a lemon tart which is not like any tart we have seen or tasted. It looked like an ice lolly complete with lolly stick of lemon soft meringue on top of a buttery biscuit and here we go again a quenelle of yoghurt sorbet.
We thought that was it, but then out came two more little dishes (one dish each) divided into 3 each with a different little petit fours. There was a tiny madeleine, a strawberry macaron sandwiched with strawberry jam and the other was a little round chocolate with a soft centre but it had a crunchy middle. We were bursting at this point but ordered 2 coffees and we sat in the lounge watching the beautiful sunset and forcing the petit fours down.
The whole meal took 2 and a half leisurely hours and we enjoyed every minute, so much so that we decided to splash out again on the last night of our holiday as we were staying at this super hotel for 3 days.
Fat and full of lovely food we retired to our room, to find the cushions on the bed had now been replaced with the pillows and 2 pink flower heads had been put in between, so glad that they were not chocolates! It was very peaceful with no traffic, revellers or church bells to keep us awake, just the sound of the sea and boat rigging in the distance, doesn’t get much more peaceful than this. We both had a good nights’ sleep.
23rd May 2016. First breakfast in this hotel in a breakfast room with lovely views overlooking the sea. There was plenty of choice and I even had chocolate pancakes, yes for breakfast (and I am not a sweet tooth) but as they were on offer I just had to try – waistline expanding by the minute.
It was a hot and sunny day and we drove to Coz port which was part of the “Pink Granite Coast” near Tregastel which is a must if you are in this area and is famous for the huge pink granite rocks and rock formations. I like to make various shapes from them (an alternative to if you have vivid imaginations – like I do and do the same with clouds) but even Steve could make shapes out of these huge rocks and I mean huge.
We followed a path up a cliff path and along a beach to an island which Steve thought was the Ile Renote but later found out it wasn’t but it was very picturesque. We did actually pick up a couple of small pieces of this beautiful pink granite on the beach as a momento and now the largest bit is in my rockery.
We came back to the port and then walked the other way and as it was so warm sat on a sandy beach for a while and soaked up the sun. After our rest we continued walking and then realised that this was the Ile Renote, another long stretch of the pink granite coast. The walk was stunning but very rugged and beautiful and we enjoyed it, passing some fantastic houses (well more like small castles). When we came back to the port we stopped at a seafront bar and Steve had half pint of Guinness (very English) and me a coke. We decided as we ate so much yesterday we wouldn’t have any lunch but couldn’t resist an ice cream.
We then drove along to the little Port of Ploumanach and a short walk around another part of the pink granite coast, and then it was back in the car and the short drive back to the hotel, feeling very warm and tired as we had done a lot of walking. We decided to make use of the lovely garden so sat relaxing enjoying the glorious sea views.
As we were still feeling very full and didn’t want a rich full blown French meal we walked (yes more walking) down to the seafront in Trebeurden to try and find somewhere for a plain meal. We ended up having a posh burger and chips (I hasten to add nothing like “Macdonalds” or “Burger King” which we do not eat at home) in a seafront restaurant which I have to say was very good. No starters or desserts as we really couldn’t eat too much, but it was nice and plain and we enjoyed it. Then the walk back up the hill to the hotel on a beautiful still and calm warm summer evening and so to our very quiet room.
24th May 2016. Another good nights peaceful sleep and woken up by bird song (it was like being at home). It was hot and sunny so decided yet another coastal walk was on the cards. After breakfast we went to the local market up in the town which is held every Tuesday to purchase a French baguette and some cheese and wine to go in the back pack for a lunch.
We started the walk at the marina at 10.55 am and walked along Le Castel which is a small headland but is quite a difficult walk up and down and sometimes rocky terrain. We passed a pink granite rock formation which looked like a face, and half way round was where you could walk over to the Ile Milliau which can only be accessed when the tide is out. We did want to go over but the tide was still in so decided to carry on with our walk and would come back later. We carried on across the beach called the Plage de Tresmeur and on towards the Pointe de Bihit which is a large headland. We stopped at the cliff edge for our lunch of baguette, cheese and wine and sat admiring the fantastic view. Steve has problems eating very crusty bread (he will hate me for this!!) so he ate the soft middle and a seagull helped him with the outer crusty bits. He has previous for breaking a tooth and finding a dentist in France
We then walked back to the causeway for the Ile Milliau and as the tide was now out we could go across. Firstly we had to negotiate and climb down the steep rock face and then clamber over the boulders on the tidal bit to get to the island. It was then quite a steep walk up a track once on the island and then it opened out to a grassy headland passing a group of large mushroom shaped rocks which formed a tunnel? There were a couple of houses on this island which we assume could only be accessed by boat, as no vehicles could get across the causeway.
It was quite a walk but we had to be wary of the time as you only have a couple of hours before the tide turns, and you wouldn’t be able to get back to the mainland. Thankfully we did, and after all that walking we were desperate for a cold drink and to rest our aching feet as it was now 3.00 pm and apart from stopping for our lunch we had been walking all that time. Once we were refreshed we then had to continue walking uphill to get back to the hotel and have to say once in our room it was good to lay on the bed for a rest, well we are getting on a bit after all.
As I said above we had enjoyed the meal in the hotel restaurant the night before last so we decided to have our last meal here. However the owners daughter saw us and told us that it was a limited menu on this particular night and the 2 choices for main were fish. We told her that this was a problem but she said that she would make sure the chef cooked a meat dish, which was much appreciated (well I suppose it was either having our custom at the hotel or go elsewhere!!).
We had the same hors d’oeuvres as the first night to start followed by a different single hors d’oeuvres which was an egg with lemon foam. Then we had the alternative meat dish as well which was duck served with various vegetables and it was very tasty. Then the same palette cleansing chopped strawberries in a juice with a sorbet on top and a wafer thin circular biscuit . We both chose the chocolate dessert which was lovely (even though I am not a chocolate person) which consisted of little chocolate delights. There were 3 triangles of a chocolate truffle with a biscuit base, 2 tiny crunchy chocolate rounds with a pecan nut on the top, and a quenelle of chocolate cream with golden salt flakes on the top.
We then had the little tray each of petit fors, with coffee and again sat in the in the lounge overlooking the sea and watching the even better sunset as it was a clear cloudless sky. It had been an energetic and tiring day so looking forward to our last peaceful nights sleep at this hotel.
25th May 2016. Our last French breakfast and checking out of this super hotel and it was on the road back to Roscoff. However there was one last job that we had to do and that was to stop at the Red Bus Wine supermarket to fill up with our favourite French wine. We boarded the Armorique ferry at 2.30p.m (French time) and arrived in Plymouth at 8.30 p.m (English time). We got home at about 9.00 p.m unloaded the car, unpacked the case(s) and one load of dirty washing in the washing machine – a very enjoyable but energetic holiday over.
Will I remember how to make the bed in the morning, as no maid to do it for me!!! And of course I will have to cook meals again!!!
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