North Devon Exmoor Break With Clumberdoodle Archie 2018

Monday 17th September 2018

We have friends that we have been meaning to visit friends who live in North Devon for a couple of years, but it is quite a trek from us down here in South Devon.  It means about a 4 hour round trip which does not give much time for visiting, so we decided to make a little break and booked a dog friendly holiday cottage.  We used to live in Bideford and Westward Ho! but have not really explored the Exmoor area so to stay for a few days gave the ideal opportunity to do that.

As Steve has an electric car and to be out in the countryside, he looked on a charging point map and found a dog friendly holiday cottage in a little village called Brayford which had a charging point.  The cottage itself looked lovely and to have a charging point on site was definitely a plus which meant we could keep the charged throughout our stay, as to get anywhere was quite a drive.

We left at 11.00 am in thick mist and drizzle which was a good start.  We stopped at Great Torrington for a picnic lunch and to give Archie a walk which by this time the weather had improved, the mist had lifted and it was now dry.

We arrived at around 2.30 p.m and Acorn Retreat  which is attached to the main house and was accessed down a long narrow country drive boarded on either side  by steep fields with sheep on one side and various chickens,  guinea fowl, geese and other birds on the other and at the beginning of the drive 2 pigs had their home.

Linda the owner met us and showed us around the cottage and gave us 6 fresh eggs from her free range chickens which we enjoyed for breakfast on the Thursday and they were delicious. .

We unpacked and then went for a walk around the 10 acres of ground which includes 5 disused lakes that used to be used for trout farming which Archie decided he wanted to take a closer look at one of the lakes and promptly fell in (good job he can swim) and had to scramble up the bank.

The River Bray borders the grounds so thought it would be a good idea if Archie went in the river to clean off. We also met the chickens in their coups dotted around the grounds and also Linda keeps bee hives which we came across.

It was such a lovely early evening that we sat out on the decking in the raised garden that was for the sole use of of Acorn Retreat with a glass of wine whilst Archie dried off.

I did decide to take some provisions with us so no need to go to a supermarket as soon as we arrived so I took a pizza  which made a quick and easy first night’s tea.

Tuesday 18th September 2018 Visiting Friends and Abbotsham Cliffs

Got up and dressed, gave Archie his breakfast and walked him along the drive so he could have run and to relieve himself which became routine throughout our stay.  There were some pheasants around, that flew out of the hedges and made us jump as we walked up the drive and also squirrels so an abundance of wildlife all around.

Then it was time for our breakfast of croissants and then it was the day that we had put aside for visiting. First stop was Northam near Bideford to visit some friends that we knew when we lived in Westward Ho! who used to run German Shepherd Obedience classes, which I went to for many years with our first dog Tara. We had  kept in touch with them over the years but only went back to visit on a a couple of occasions.  We didn’t know what they would make of Archie not being a German Shepherd but they said they thought he was lovely but did they really mean it, or were they just being polite?

Between visits we went for a walk at Abbotsham Cliffs which is a stunning  walk that we used to do regularly with Tara.  The scenery is lovely with a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean along the cliff path and Archie loved it. By this time the sun had come out and although warm it was very windy.  We enjoyed a picnic that I had packed overlooking the stunning scenery.

It was then on to Barnstaple to visit an old school friend of my Mum’s that we have known for years and used to visit regularly when I was a child and to play with her 3 children as we grew up.  Another cup of tea and biscuits and a chat and then it was time to head back.

By this time it was quite late so popped into a supermarket in Barnstaple to pick up a ready meal that I could just pop in the oven when we got back to Acorn Retreat.   Plumped for a lasagne and garlic bread that we had with a glass of wine which was very enjoyable.  It had been a long day and all 3 of us were tired.

Wednesday 19th September 2018 Lynton Lynmouth & Watersmeet

After breakfast and Archie’s walk up the drive we decided to go to  Lynton and Lynmouth.   The first stop was Lynton where we decided to walk to the Valley of  Rocks.  It was a very narrow cliff path which must gave been several hundred feet above sea level with a sheer drop straight into the Atlantic Ocean on one side and a vertical cliff face on the other.   I do not like heights and the path was just a bit too narrow for me and being so high up I panicked and although the weather was dry it was very windy to add to my fear. So only after a short distance I had to turn back as I wasn’t enjoying it. Archie had to be kept on a very short lead as  it was only a few paws wide he could  have easily  fallen down the cliff and into the sea and down to Davey Jones’ locker!!!

Once back from the narrow high part and back to where I was happier, we walked along a little bridge where you could watch the famous Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway go up and down the shear cliff face.  This water powered funicular railway joins the twin villages of Lynton & Lynmouth  500ft/150m.  However I made a very hasty decision that I did not want to to go on it so after a quick look around Lynton we drove the car the short distance down the steep and windy hill to Lynmouth.

It was very pretty and we walked along a path that ran alongside the rocky beach and I felt a lot happier being at sea level. Archie played on the shingle beach but tried to keep him out of the sea which we managed to do as the tide was quite a long way out.

We then walked around the pretty shops on the other side of the river and decided to have lunch at the Rock House Hotel & Pub situated right by the edge of the sea and  had a garden so ideal for Archie.  It  had a thatched roof over the bar entrance with a covered area with a couple of tables.  It became incredibly windy and a couple of gusts nearly blew the condiments and drinks off the table.

Luckily a couple left who were sat in the sheltered area so we grabbed that as soon as they left.

Steve enjoyed his pint of Guinness and we both had a beef burger (something neither if us would normally  choose to eat) but it was served on a brioche bun and  came with chips a small side salad, coleslaw and onion rings. It was adequate and we ate most of it and that is all that I can say.

As I said previously Acorn Retreat is miles away from anywhere hence today we ate at lunch time, but I couldn’t resist the smell of pasties as we walked around to bought 2 to take home just in case we felt  peckish later on, or take them with us if we took a picnic tomorrow! As we were walking back along the sea front shops there was an ice cream parlour which also sold “doggy ice cream” so couldn’t resist and he loved it. However he does like human ice cream but it is not advisable to give it to dogs as it can upset their tummies, but he seems to get away with it.

Notice the bags with the pasties in them!

We then drove the few miles up a windy road to Watersmeet, a National Trust location. The pay and display parking is actually on the road and even if you are a National trust member you have to pay.  As soon as we parked the car if started to rain which was a shame and the morning had been lovely. It was a steep trek down down to the bridge and the tea garden and cafe. There were a number of different walking routes you could go on but most are uneven and slippery paths, which run alongside the river and steep climbs up into wooded areas, with some steep drops to one side and in some places it is advisable to put dogs on leads.

We walked quite a way up a steep path in the woods and then down along the river and spotted a beautiful heron that was just standing on a rock.  Archie did have a  swim in the river, well it didn’t really matter him getting wet as we were all soaked from the rain.

For some reason Steve took an instant dislike to this place, but I have no idea why.  It didn’t even make him feel any better about it when we stopped for a cup of tea and a cake and sat in the garden under a parasol whilst the torrential rain kept falling.

It was then back to the cottage to dry off and a nice cup of coffee. Once Archie had been towelled off and hairdried he fell asleep, as he had been on the go all day.

By the way we decided to eat the pasties around 8.00pm and very nice they were too, did you really think we would keep them until tomorrow!!!!

Thursday 20th September 2018 Arlington Court

Heavy rain and gales during the night and was still raining when we got up.  Walked Archie on our daily walk up the drive and then started our day off with  boiled eggs fresh from the chickens. Decided to visit  Arlington Court which is a National Trust property.

We started our visit by going to see the horse drawn Carriage Museum which exhibits over 40 vehicles from the 19th and 20th centuries which was very interesting. There was a main hall which had most of the carriages and then in a separate room was a fabulous gold leaf carriage which was used by the speaker of the House of Commons.  As you are not allowed to use the flash on your camera unfortunately these photos are a bit blurred

We then went upstairs where another collection of smaller carriages were exhibited one which was made especially for the American General Tom Thumb (which I have to admit did not realise that he was a real person not just in fairy tales. As you can imagine it was very sweet).

At the end of this hall was a wooden model of a Shetland pony named “Dandy” which Archie took an instant dislike to backing off and barking at it and would not stop, even when I went over and patted it, he would not go near it.  There was some tack hanging up which you could have a go at putting it on Dandy, which I  am sure that many would have had great fun trying to do but Archie couldn’t get out of the hall quick enough and was very pleased when we turned around and went back downstairs. You would think he had never seen a horse before, but we pass 2 nearly every day when we go for a walk, so I have no idea why and he didn’t bat an eyelid at the life size models of 2 horses that were in the downstairs carriage room.  Why Dandy a beautiful  wooden one caused him a problem I have no idea.

We then went into the courtyard and saw the stables and also the the tack room where all the harnesses were displayed which was quite a sight. Also in the courtyard there was a little wooden carriage with a metal horse that you just had to sit in, and I made Steve and Archie sit in it for an obligatory photo which Archie was pleased to do, not sure about Steve though!!!

We then decided to follow the green trail which was a 3 mile trail around the estate where Archie could be let off the lead. It was still light rain and although Archie was wet he still wanted to go and gave a dip in the river.  We also came across an impressive cluster of toadstools

We got back to the house and sat outside for a light lunch of a bowl of leek and potato soup which I have to say  was probably the worst bowl of soup I had ever tasted. It lacked any flavour and was definitely under seasoned and what made it worse was that it was nearly cold. I should have complained but we were sitting outside with Archie so really couldn’t be bothered, but perhaps I should have made the effort, as it was pretty awful.

After lunch we took it in turns to go and look inside the house, as dogs were not allowed. Both Steve and I had the same thought when we came out that it was absolutely lovely.  It had a lovely warm homely feet about it, as if the family still lived in at and had gone out for the day. It was unlike other  stately homes that we had seen that are quite cold and uninviting.

Every room  that was open to the public was beautifully decorated and an information leaflet was in every room which explained  in detail the history of the room and detailed all the items of interest. It was a very well organised National Trust property and the volunteers were very knowledgeable about each room they were in. This also applied to the volunteers who were in the carriage collection as they too were very friendly and eager to share their knowledge.

We spent a good few hours here at Arlington Court and even though we were wet and muddy we had enjoyed it, all that is except for the soup!!!

As I have said previously, our cottage was quite a distance from anywhere, so we went back to the cottage so we could all dry off which included Archie having to be washed and then hair dried.  We then drove the 7 miles into the nearest town being  South Molton to pop into the supermarket to get something to cook for dinner, as once we were back with the weather was quite grim so we knew we wouldn’t feel like going out again and it was certainly not the weather for sitting out in a pub garden for tea, which we would have to do with Archie in tow!!

We arrived in South Molton, drove down the main street but no supermarket. Steve got out of the car and asked who he hoped was a local where the nearest  supermarket was.  Would you believe it but the man he stopped was actually walking on his way to work in Sainsbury’s so instead of giving directions Steve offered him a lift in the car, which he was very grateful for.

Friday 21st September  2018 Dulverton & Tarr Steps

Today we we decided to explore Exmoor and visit the Tarr Steps which is a well known beauty spot and tourist attraction and the little village of Dulverton.  However we were delayed a bit as Steve decided to put the hoover around the cottage.  He started in the bedroom and I was in the kitchen area packing up a picnic and all of a sudden all went quiet. I went into the bedroom to find Steve sat on the bed holding his head which he had hit on one of the sloping rooves. There are 2 in the bedroom and I am actually surprised that neither of us had hit our heads on them before, as unless you lowered your head walking past the end of the bed you would come in to contact with them. Steve took a nasty whack and it shook him up   – well anything to get out of hoovering!!!

Seriously, he was in pain as it was a thumping clout but after a cup of tea and a sit down he felt a bit better so off we went. We drove over Exmoor  and although it wasn’t as bleak as Dartmoor (which is local to us and not at all biased!!) it was not that large and most of the actual moorland was bordered by fields, and we didn’t see one Exmoor pony.

We arrived at Dulverton and have to say we’re a bit underwhelmed (apologies to the locals of Dulverton).  We had a quick walk around as it didn’t take very long to see it and stopped in a nice little cafe which welcomed dogs, and had a cup of coffee and a piece of yogurt topped flapjack which we shared and was very nice. During our visit here it was quite warm so we sat outside and it was very pleasant and the staff made a fuss of Archie.

We then drove the 6 miles to the Tarr steps and on the way passed fields full of pheasants.  I have never seen so many in one place and it was quite a sight and I will not get so excited just seeing the odd one in the future!!  There were large feeders in the fields which looked like bins so obviously they were being farmed for  shooting.  They had the run of the surrounding area which included walking on roads and we saw a few that had been knocked over. Exmoor is  renowned for these shoots  so it is no wonder that so many pheasants are being bred as having looked online as many as 200 birds can be killed in one shoot, so  they are a great money earner (how sad!!).  But they are living a good natural life whilst they are alive.

We arrived at the Tarr Steps car park and the heavens opened, so we sat in the car and had our picnic. The rain did stop when we had finished and we walked down the long steep path down to Clapper Bridge and the steps. We all crossed the very large  stepping stones that straddle the River Barle.

We then went on the 11/2 mile circular route following the river. It wasn’t long before the heavens opened again and we all got soaked with Archie looking like a drowned rat. We walked one side  and then crossed a bridge at the end to come back on the other side of the other side of the river. We came across another beautiful cluster of toadstools

On the way round we came across something very interesting which confirmed that there is such a thing as a money tree! Yes a huge tree trunk lying horizontal on the path had coins embedded in it which went around the circumference and length of it. Thousands of coins over the years had been each placed into the cracks in the bark and there was no way you could get any out as we tried! (not to steal them but just to see how wedged in they were).  We did push one of our coins into it as you couldn’t pass it without doing this. As the main trunk looked full there were a couple of smaller logs which were also full of coins.  Archie loves to climb and this log was no exception but with the edges of the coins poking out it must gave been a bit uncomfortable.

It took a while to do the walk but once back at the steps if was the long walk back to the car with the rain still coming down.

It was back to Acorn Retreat to dry off again! Archie does not like being wet even though he likes getting wet in water but is not happy to stay wet and it was about a 40 minutes drive back so he was not happy sitting in the car wet and bedraggled.  It was quite funny but when we got in the first thing was to get my hairdryer to dry him off and as I approached him with it in my hand he put his paw out to me pleading for me to blow dry him with the lovely warm air to get him dry.  He sat there in ecstasy until his coat was all nice and fluffed up and he was warm and comfortable.  Then it was my turn to get changed into dry clothes and a cup of coffee to warm us up.

I decided to make a start on the packing in readiness for the journey home tomorrow as with bad weather again forecast  we wanted to get an early start.

Cooked, well heated up our last  meal and enjoyed it with a glass of wine to end of our little break.

Saturday 22nd September 2018 

Got up quite early, had breakfast finished packing handed back the key and said our farewells to Linda and off we went. The weather was awful so we did not stop anywhere on the way home.  We got home before lunch so unpacked, did the washing and then walked Archie up on Henlake Down and guess what?  Got thoroughly soaked.  However Sunday 23rd was a lovely day and the following it was warm, dry and sunny – typical!!!

North Devon Exmoor Break With Clumberdoodle Archie 2018